Monday, December 27, 2010
Read a Knitting Pattern for Mistake Stitch Rib
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
How to Read Mosaic Knitting Patterns
Mosaic Knitting, also known as Slip-Stitch Colorwork, is an easy way to create beautiful two-color patterns while knitting.
This photo shows a two-stitch-wide white bridges over a black stripe.
Example of Mosaic Knitting with Slip Stitches
- If the stitch on the old needle is the same color as the yarn (in this case black), knit or purl it, depending on what the pattern says.
- If the stitch on the old needle is the other color, Slip it purlwise with the yarn in the front of the knitted fabric (facing you).
- Row 1 (RS): With B, k1, *(sl 1 wyib, k1) twice, sl 1 wyib, k2, (sl 1 wyib, k1) 2 times; rep from * across.
- Row 2 and all WS rows: With same color used on previous row, p the knit sts of previous row, sl wyif the sl sts of previous row.
Friday, October 29, 2010
Read Knitting Patterns for Ripple Stitch Afghans
Key features of Ripple Stitch
- The knitted fabric looks like a big zigzag, with mountains and valleys. The bottom and top edges look like the letter W. This is formed by matching pairs of double-increases (where 3 stitches come out of 1) and double-decreases (where 3 stitches become 1).
- The pattern is typically just a two-row repeat, with a complex row alternating with a plain row.
- The number of stitches on the needle is the same from one row to the next.
- Often, projects made using the Ripple Stitch are made in multiple colors. The best part is that you only use one color of yarn per row.
Example of a Ripple Stitch pattern row
- The beginning: K2tog. K3.
- The repeat: *(K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K2tog. Psso. K3.
- The ending: (K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K1. Psso.
- The beginning: K2tog. K3.
- The ending: (K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K1. Psso.
Conclusion
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Read Knitting Patterns with Many Colors
Multi-Color Knitting Patterns - Introduction
If you see more than one color in the photo of a knitting pattern, you will probably be using at least one ball of yarn for each color. (There are exceptions, and I’ll talk about them later.)
The confirmation is in the Materials section of the header of the knitting pattern. You might see something like the following:
- CA: Black - 1 ball
- CB: Red - 1 ball
- MC and CC (for Main and Contrasting colors)
- MC and CA (for Main and Color A)
- A and B (for color A and color B)
- A, B, C, D, E would be for 5 colors. There is no hint as to which is used most.
- MC, CA, CB, CC, CD would be for a main color with 4 different contrasting colors.
- The MC and CC combination is only used for 2 colors, a Main and a Contrasting color.
In the Instructions Section
The knitting pattern will usually have the word WITH before whatever color code letters are used. Examples:- Row 1: (RS). With MC, purl across.
- Row 1: (RS). With A, K2. With B, K2. With A, K2.
The Exception: A Single Ball of Yarn with Multiple Colors
Once upon a time, if you saw a knitting pattern photo with lots of colors, you knew immediately that you would need balls of yarn in each of those colors.
These days, there is always the possibility that the pattern designer is taking advantage of one of the many multi-colored yarns that the manufacturers provide. They may be variegated, self-striping, or self-patterning. One type of yarn is especially designed for sock knitting, so that an interesting color pattern emerges as you are knitting.
You will know this to be the case when you see a reference to only one color in the Materials section of the header of the knitting pattern. And usually that will be a specific yarn. If you substitute yarns, you will likely not be able to duplicate the effect.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Using double pointed needles for circular knitting
Every so often, you might read a knitting pattern calling for double pointed needles (abbreviated DPN). Usually, the patterns call for 4 such needles, which is a good thing, since when you buy them they come in packages of 4.
A reference to DPNs is a clue that you will probably be knitting a small tube of some form (examples: hats, socks, mitts, leg warmers).
Here are some tips for success.
Casting on
When you cast on, ignore the extra needles. Use whichever cast-on method you want, and get all of the stitches onto one needle.
Divide the cast-on stitches
The pattern will usually say to divide the stitches evenly onto 3 needles. There will be one needle left over.
Sometimes, you will read a pattern that says to cast on a number of stitches that is NOT divisible by the number of needles. When that happens to me, my philosophy is that close is good enough. As long as the number of stitches on each needle are roughly equal, I’m satisfied.
Position the needles so that the cast-on ridges are all pointing to the inside of the triangle. At this stage, it is VERY IMPORTANT that the stitches or needles do not get twisted.
Start to knit
The instructions usually say to join in a round (you will be knitting in rounds, not rows).
The ball yarn is connected to the last stitch that was cast on. The needle holding that last stitch will not be used for a while, but the yarn will be used right away.
The most significant stitch at this point is the very first stitch that was cast on (usually the slip knot at the beginning of the cast-on process).
Hold the needle containing that very first cast-on stitch – this will be your Old or Holding Needle (usually the left-hand needle). Using the empty needle as your New or Working Needle, work a Knit stitch into that very first cast-on stitch.
Ignore, as best as you can, the other needles. Just make sure that the stitches don’t fall off of those needles. If you cast-on loosely, it might be in your best interests to put stitch protectors on both ends of the needles that you are not using.
When you finish knitting the stitches on one needle, there will be a new empty needle. This will become your new working needle, and the next needle will be the new holding needle.
Too much yarn between needles
Sometimes, there’s a really long strand of yarn between the last and first stitches. Don’t worry too much about that. This extra length will often work itself into the adjacent stitches eventually. However, a key method to achieve success is to always knit the first stitch on a needle very tightly.
Circular knitting with double pointed needles has some interesting parts, but on the whole it is not that difficult. Try it.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Read Knitting Patterns for Multi-Size Garments
Reading Multi-Size Knitting Patterns
If you are planning on making a garment, chances are good that you will be reading a knitting pattern for multiple sizes. There will be many places in the pattern where you will need to know the number that applies to the size you are trying to create. This article will help you to choose the appropriate number.
Inside the Pattern
The first thing that you have to look at is in the header of the knitting pattern. Here is where the pattern designer tells you which sizes are available.
As a rule, the various sizes are shown as in the following examples, all for 5 different sizes:
- 32 (34, 36, 38, 40)
- S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
- 6 (8, 10, 12, 14)
This format of specifying the sizes tells you that whenever you see a sequence of a number followed by 4 numbers in parentheses, you are looking at a multiple-size specification.
If you are making the smallest size, you will use the first number, the one outside the parentheses.
If you are making the largest size, then you will use the last number inside the parentheses.
For example, if the instructions say "Cast on 90 (95, 100, 105, 110) sts.", then:
- if you are the largest size, cast on 110 stitches.
- if you are the fourth size, cast on 105 stitches.
- if you are the third size, cast on 100 stitches.
- and so on.
Any other statements with a similar sequence of numbers is treated similarly:
Cast off 4(5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
All you have to do is remember which of those numbers is for you.
Hints
One suggestion that will help to make your knitting life happier is to read through your knitting pattern, before you start to knit, looking for every occurrence of the multi-size sequence of numbers.
Highlight the one that applies to you.
If you are the second-from-the-smallest size, then highlight the first number inside the parentheses.
Another hint: if you would like to learn more, sign up for the free e-course on How to Read Knitting Patterns.
More about the sizes
A 40 could mean a 40" bust. Or it could mean the finished size.
And do S/M/L/XL/2XL mean the same as in ready-to-wear?
If you are fortunate, the pattern writer also includes some other clues as to what the size means.
Some patterns say that the Size refers to the finished size of the garment. Some also include the corresponding bust/chest measurement (if the garment is a sweater). Some patterns will indicate whether the garment is fits loosely or snugly.
But in some cases you are on your own for figuring out what the size number really means.
One method you can use is to take advantage of the gauge specification. But you will need to do a bit of math.
Example:
If the gauge says 20 stitches in 4 inches with Stocking Stitch, and the Back and Front of a Stocking Stitch Sweater each have 100 stitches on the needle just below the armhole shaping, then there are 200 stitches around the chest/bust.
200 stitches is ten 20-stitch chunks, or ten 4-inch chunks, or 40 inches finished size. With the standard of a couple of inches of ease, then if your chest/bust is 38 inches, this will be a comfortable fit. If the sweater is designed to fit snugly, though, it would work with a chest/bust of 42 inches (that's called "negative ease").
Conclusion
Now you know how to interpret a knitting pattern for multiple sizes. It's time for you to start making a sweater that's the correct size.
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Read Knitting Patterns with Decreases
The Dec instruction in a Knitting Pattern
If you read a knitting pattern with Dec in the instructions, how do you know what kind of decrease to do?
The answer can differ based on the type of project you are making.
Occasionally, the pattern designer will tell you what to do. But more often than not, you're on your own.
Here is some information about decreases in knitting, and in particular, a decrease in which two stitches on the old needle become one stitch on the new needle. (Double decreases, where three stitches become one, will not be covered in this article.)
Knitting Decreases Slant
When you examine a decrease carefully, you will see one of two results: either the right stitch covers the left stitch (making a left-leaning decrease), or the left stitch covers the right stitch (making a right-leaning decrease).So if you are looking for symmetry (say in armhole shaping for a sweater, or in some lace patterns), then you probably want one of each type.
The most commonly used right-leaning Knit decrease is the K2tog (Knit 2 stitches together).
Here are the two most commonly used left-leaning Knit decreases:
- SKP (Slip 1 stitch knitwise, Knit 1 stitch, Pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch)
- SSK (Slip 1 stitch knitwise, Slip another stitch knitwise (don't do both at the same time), Slip both stitches purlwise back onto the old needle, then knit the two stitches together through the back loops)
Purl-based decreases are uncommon, but they do occur.
The most commonly used left-leaning Purl decrease is the P2tog (Purl 2 stitches together).
There are two commonly used right-leaning Purl decreases:
- P2togtbl (Purl 2 stitches together through back loops).
- SSP (Slip 1 stitch knitwise, Slip another stitch knitwise (don't do both at the same time), Slip both stitches purlwise back onto the old needle, then purl the two stitches together through the back loops)
Decreases in a Sweater Knitting Pattern
Now we have identified the usual decreases for knitting. Now what?When you are working the armhole or sleeve cap shaping for a sweater, the pattern writer will just say "Dec 1 stitch at each end of row nnn".
So, as a general rule, do the following:
- On the right side: Knit 1 stitch, SSK or SKP, work in the stitch pattern for the sweater until 3 stitches remain, K2tog, Knit the last stitch.
- On the wrong side: Purl 1 stitch, P2tog, work in the stitch pattern for the sweater until 3 stitches remain, SSP or P2togtbl, Purl the last stitch.
If you do not want that diagonal line (because it might look strange with the characteristics of the main stitch pattern for the sweater), then the following suggestions will actually hide the decreases:
- On the right side: K2tog, work in the stitch pattern for the sweater until 2 stitches remain, SSK or SKP.
- On the wrong side: SSP or P2togtbl, work in the stitch pattern for the sweater until 2 stitches remain, P2tog.
- Different types of decreases are worked at opposite ends of the knitted fabric.
- In the first set of instructions, the decreases are worked one stitch from the edge; in the second, they are worked right at the edge.
- In the first set of guidelines, the diagonal slant of the decreases is quite visible; in the second, the decreases are almost invisible.
Decreases in Lace Knitting Patterns
On a lace knitting pattern, the pattern designer very likely has incorporated the lean of the decreases into the lace design, so most lace patterns will specifically tell you which decrease to use. Here is an example:Row 2: K4. * K2tog. YO. K1. YO. SKP. K5. Rep from * until 9 sts rem. K2tog. YO. K1. YO. SKP. K4.
Notice how the K2tog and SKP "frame" the YOs (Yarn-overs). The different lean of the two decreases provides a mirror image to the lace pattern.
For more information
Check out the free e-course on how to read knitting patterns.Thursday, September 23, 2010
Read Knitting Patterns for Lace
The key component of lace fabric is the hole - without those eyelets there would be no lace.
The stitch that makes that hole has several names: Yarn Over (YO), Yarn Forward (Yfwd), Yarn Round Needle (Yrn), and others, depending on the age of the pattern or its country of origin or even just how the pattern writer thinks. (Here is an article about the Yarn Over stitch.)
The Yarn Over is an increase stitch. If the knitted fabric is supposed to end up rectangular, then there really has to be a corresponding decrease stitch. Typically, these decreases are formed by either right-leaning decrease like the K2tog (Knit 2 stitches together) or a left-leaning decrease like the SKP (Slip 1 stitch knitwise, Knit 1 stitch, Pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch). (Here is an article about Left-Leaning and Right-Leaning Decreases.)
Enough background - let's see a real example of a row instruction for lace:
Row 2: K4. * K2tog. YO. K1. YO. SKP. K5. Rep from * until 9 sts rem. K2tog. YO. K1. YO. SKP. K4.
The first step when you see a row like this is to identify the three main chunks in it:
- The beginning (the part before the asterisk or star or *): K4.
- The middle or repeat (the part after the asterisk and before the Repeat instruction): K2tog. YO. K1. YO. SKP. K5.
- The ending (the part after the Repeat instruction): K2tog. YO. K1. YO. SKP. K4.
One useful tip is based on the fact that you are supposed to repeat until 9 stitches remain on the old needle. Put a stitch marker (or just a safety pin) onto the old needle just before those last 9 stitches. That way, when you come to the stitch marker, you know that you are supposed to stop the repeats. Then you can take the stitch marker off and work the ending chunk of the instructions.
You might have noticed that the ending chunk looks just like the repeated chunk - the only difference is that there is only a K4 at the end instead of a K5.
One last tip: when you're looking at lace patterns, start with something that is simple. What defines simple? Look at the repeated section in the row instructions: if there are only one or two YOs in it, then I would call it simple. If it has three or more YOs in a repeat, it just might be something to do when you have a bit more experience.
If you found the above discussion a bit too complicated, please consider signing up for a free email-based course on How to Read Knitting Patterns.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Knit the Knits and Purl the Purls
If you think that this means to Purl any stitches that you Purled in the previous row, you would be wrong!
Yep - that means that you have gone into a parallel universe, where black really means white!
OK, I'll get serious now.
The key phrase "as they face you" is important, even though some pattern writers might omit it.
When you make a Knit stitch, the result on the new needle is a stitch with a bump next to the needle on the back side of your knitted fabric (where you might not notice it), and a Vee on the front side.
When you make a Purl stitch, the result on the new needle is a stitch with a bump next to the needle on the front side of your knitted fabric, and a Vee on the back side (where you might not notice it).
If you work an entire row of Knit stitches and then swap the needles in preparation for making the next row, you will see a whole bunch of stitches with bumps next to the needle on the old needle. In other words, they look like Purl stitches. Even though you know that they were Knitted in the previous row.
Similarly, if you Purl a row and swap the needles to do the next row, you will see Vees, not bumps facing you. So they look like Knit stitches. And you know that you just finished Purling them.
When the pattern writer says to Knit the Knits and Purl the Purls, they mean Knit the stitches that look like Knit stitches, and Purl the stitches that look like Purl stitches.
And we now know that if a stitch looks like a Purl stitch, it was Knitted on the previous row (and vice versa).
Here are some photos to help you get the concept. In the first photo, the next stitch has to be a Knit stitch, because there is no bump next to the needle. In the second photo, the next stitch has to be a Purl stitch, because there is a definite bump next to the needle.
Knit the next stitch:
Purl the next stitch:
Sunday, September 19, 2010
How to understand knitting patterns better by partitioning them
Introduction
Have you taken a knitting class? And then have you tried to knit from a knitting pattern? Did you find it to be too complex - almost unreadable?
Then this article is for you.
One way to get a handle on a knitting pattern is to partition it - identify the major and minor and tiny sections in the pattern.
The two major sections in a knitting pattern
Every pattern has two major sections:
- The header. This includes the photo or diagram, the size, the suggested yarn and needles, and the gauge.
- The instructions. This includes everything between the initial cast-on to the final cast-off or bind-off and how to finish the project (seaming, weaving ends, and possibly more).
The header information is extremely important - but that will be the subject of another post.
The subsections in the Instructions
While each pattern is different, there are some commonalities. Usually, there is a separate subsection for each individual piece that would be seamed with others to make up the final project.
So, for a sweater pattern, you would typically have the following subsections:
- Back
- Front(s) (one front for a pullover, two fronts for a cardigan)
- Sleeves
- Collar
- Any other interesting things that a sweater might have (like a button band)
- Finishing
For socks, you might see the following subsections:
- Calf
- Heel
- Foot
- Toe
For a sampler afghan, you would typically see a separate subsection for each block (or type of block), plus another for finishing it (like a border).
For a scarf or one-piece afghan, you would usually see only one subsection.
It would be beneficial to highlight each of the subsections in your pattern - and remember, each of these subsections will include the instructions to make a single piece that is part of the finished project. And the subsection will include everything between the cast-on to the corresponding cast-off or bind-off (or in some cases, putting stitches onto a stitch holder for later use).
The tiny sections within an instruction row
The area that causes the biggest headache for a new knitter is a complex instruction row.
Most new knitters can quickly learn that if they see Row 1: K, they are to work the Knit stitch across the entire row (just like they practiced in class).
Similarly, Row 1: P means to work the Purl stitch across the entire row.
It is not too much of a stretch for the new knitter to understand the following:
Row 5: K5. P3. K4
This is read from left to right (even though the stitches are usually worked off the needles from right to left, unless you knit left-handed). So you would work the first 5 stitches off the needle using the Knit stitch, work the next 3 stitches using the Purl stitch, and work the final 4 stitches using the Knit stitch.
You would have started with 12 stitches, and ended with 12 stitches.
Pretty simple, right?
But what about the following snippet of instructions?
Row 3: K2. * YO. K2tog. Rep from * until 3 sts rem. K3.
First off, there are a couple of new abbreviations here: YO for yarn over, and K2tog for Knit 2 stitches together. Note that there are many places on the internet where you can find out what the abbreviations mean, and some places where you can even learn how to do what the abbreviations say. Here is one such link, from the Bernat website.
The second thing that the beginner notices is the asterisk or star (*). It is used as a repeat indicator. It is saying that you do the sequence of "YO. K2tog." over and over and over again until only 3 stitches remain on the old needle.
In a typical repeating instruction, there are usually the following tiny sections in the row:
- The beginning part (in this case the K2)
- The repeating part (in this case the * YO. K2tog. Rep from * until 3 sts rem.)
- The ending part (in this case the K3)
Once you have figured out the tiny sections, you have cut up the instructions into manageable bites.
And all of a sudden, the pattern isn't so scary!
So find a pattern, and try to identify the sections, subsections, and tiny sections.
You can also take an e-course on reading patterns - there is no charge for it. So sign up for it and get started on really learning to read and understand knitting patterns.