Read Knitting Patterns for Ripple Stitch Afghans

Knitted Ripple Stitch Afghans are much simpler to make than might appear from the actual knitting pattern.

This article will explain the basic concepts behind the Ripple Stitch.

Key features of Ripple Stitch

• The knitted fabric looks like a big zigzag, with mountains and valleys.  The bottom and top edges look like the letter W.  This is formed by matching pairs of double-increases (where 3 stitches come out of 1) and double-decreases (where 3 stitches become 1).
• The pattern is typically just a two-row repeat, with a complex row alternating with a plain row.
• The number of stitches on the needle is the same from one row to the next.
• Often, projects made using the Ripple Stitch are made in multiple colors.  The best part is that you only use one color of yarn per row.

The main repeat in Ripple Stitch usually consists of a double-increase, then knitting a number of stitches, then a double-decrease, then knitting another set of stitches.  Typically, the number of stitches between the double-increases and double-decreases is the same.

A project made with Ripple Stitch is usually symmetrical, so outside the main repeat is one more double-decrease or double-increase.  But this would change the number of stitches on the needle.  So a double-decrease is balanced by a single-increase at each side. And a double-increase is balanced by a single-decrease at each side.

Example of a Ripple Stitch pattern row

Row 2: K2tog. K3. *(K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K2tog. Psso. K3. Rep from * to last 8 sts. (K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K1. Psso.

Let’s break this down a bit.

• The beginning:  K2tog. K3.
• The repeat: *(K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K2tog. Psso. K3.
• The ending: (K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K1. Psso.

Look at the repeat first.

The phrase “(K1. P1. K1.) all in next st.” is a double-increase.  The phrase “Sl1. K2tog. Psso.” is a double-decrease.

The K3 in the middle and at the end of the repeat is the distance between the double-increases and double-decreases.

So, just as described above, the repeat consists of: double-increase, K3, double-decrease, and K3.

Now, add the little bits that make the pattern symmetrical.  Look at both the beginning and ending parts of the row:

• The beginning:  K2tog. K3.
• The ending: (K1. P1. K1.) all in next st. K3. Sl1. K1. Psso.

The ending starts with the double-increase.  There’s the symmetry.   So all that’s left are the side sections.

The beginning starts with a single-decrease, the K2tog.  And the ending finishes with another single-decrease, the SKP, or Sl1-K1-PSSO sequence.  These two types of decrease have a different slant to them, so they provide symmetry.

Between the increases and decreases is that K3 bit – just like in the repeat.

Conclusion

Usually, the only differences between various Ripple Stitch knitting patterns are the type of double-increase and the number of stitches between increases and decreases.

That’s how easy it is to read – and understand – the knitting pattern for a Ripple Stitch Afghan.

Read Knitting Patterns with Many Colors

Multi-Color Knitting Patterns - Introduction

If you see more than one color in the photo of a knitting pattern, you will probably be using at least one ball of yarn for each color. (There are exceptions, and I’ll talk about them later.)

The confirmation is in the Materials section of the header of the knitting pattern. You might see something like the following:

• CA: Black - 1 ball
  
• CB: Red - 1 ball
  

In this example, CA refers to the the Color A, the first color, the color that may be used most, and CB refers to Color B, or the second color. The two colors might also be called:

• MC and CC (for Main and Contrasting colors)
  
• MC and CA (for Main and Color A)
  
• A and B (for color A and color B)
  

No, there is no consistency in what you might see. But the list above covers most cases. Of course, if there are more than two colors, then the list of letters will be extended.

• A, B, C, D, E would be for 5 colors. There is no hint as to which is used most.
  
• MC, CA, CB, CC, CD would be for a main color with 4 different contrasting colors.
  
• The MC and CC combination is only used for 2 colors, a Main and a Contrasting color.
  

You do not need to follow the color choices as written by the pattern designer. Of course, if it is a Valentine-related project, you probably will want to use red and white. But you might decide to switch the use of the red and white – the knitting police won’t know! Otherwise, do what you want – let your own imagination shine through.

In the Instructions Section

The knitting pattern will usually have the word WITH before whatever color code letters are used. Examples:

• Row 1: (RS). With MC, purl across.
  
• Row 1: (RS). With A, K2. With B, K2. With A, K2.
  

The Exception: A Single Ball of Yarn with Multiple Colors

Once upon a time, if you saw a knitting pattern photo with lots of colors, you knew immediately that you would need balls of yarn in each of those colors.

These days, there is always the possibility that the pattern designer is taking advantage of one of the many multi-colored yarns that the manufacturers provide. They may be variegated, self-striping, or self-patterning. One type of yarn is especially designed for sock knitting, so that an interesting color pattern emerges as you are knitting.

You will know this to be the case when you see a reference to only one color in the Materials section of the header of the knitting pattern. And usually that will be a specific yarn. If you substitute yarns, you will likely not be able to duplicate the effect.

Using double pointed needles for circular knitting

Every so often, you might read a knitting pattern calling for double pointed needles (abbreviated DPN). Usually, the patterns call for 4 such needles, which is a good thing, since when you buy them they come in packages of 4.

A reference to DPNs is a clue that you will probably be knitting a small tube of some form (examples: hats, socks, mitts, leg warmers).

Here are some tips for success.

Casting on
When you cast on, ignore the extra needles. Use whichever cast-on method you want, and get all of the stitches onto one needle.

Divide the cast-on stitches
The pattern will usually say to divide the stitches evenly onto 3 needles. There will be one needle left over.

Sometimes, you will read a pattern that says to cast on a number of stitches that is NOT divisible by the number of needles. When that happens to me, my philosophy is that close is good enough. As long as the number of stitches on each needle are roughly equal, I’m satisfied.

Position the needles so that the cast-on ridges are all pointing to the inside of the triangle. At this stage, it is VERY IMPORTANT that the stitches or needles do not get twisted.




Start to knit

The instructions usually say to join in a round (you will be knitting in rounds, not rows).

The ball yarn is connected to the last stitch that was cast on. The needle holding that last stitch will not be used for a while, but the yarn will be used right away.

The most significant stitch at this point is the very first stitch that was cast on (usually the slip knot at the beginning of the cast-on process).

Hold the needle containing that very first cast-on stitch – this will be your Old or Holding Needle (usually the left-hand needle). Using the empty needle as your New or Working Needle, work a Knit stitch into that very first cast-on stitch.




Ignore, as best as you can, the other needles. Just make sure that the stitches don’t fall off of those needles. If you cast-on loosely, it might be in your best interests to put stitch protectors on both ends of the needles that you are not using.

When you finish knitting the stitches on one needle, there will be a new empty needle. This will become your new working needle, and the next needle will be the new holding needle.

Too much yarn between needles



Sometimes, there’s a really long strand of yarn between the last and first stitches. Don’t worry too much about that. This extra length will often work itself into the adjacent stitches eventually. However, a key method to achieve success is to always knit the first stitch on a needle very tightly.

Circular knitting with double pointed needles has some interesting parts, but on the whole it is not that difficult. Try it.

Read Knitting Patterns for Multi-Size Garments

Reading Multi-Size Knitting Patterns

If you are planning on making a garment, chances are good that you will be reading a knitting pattern for multiple sizes. There will be many places in the pattern where you will need to know the number that applies to the size you are trying to create. This article will help you to choose the appropriate number.

Inside the Pattern

The first thing that you have to look at is in the header of the knitting pattern. Here is where the pattern designer tells you which sizes are available.

As a rule, the various sizes are shown as in the following examples, all for 5 different sizes:

• 32 (34, 36, 38, 40)
  
• S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
  
• 6 (8, 10, 12, 14)
  

This format of specifying the sizes tells you that whenever you see a sequence of a number followed by 4 numbers in parentheses, you are looking at a multiple-size specification.

If you are making the smallest size, you will use the first number, the one outside the parentheses.

If you are making the largest size, then you will use the last number inside the parentheses.

For example, if the instructions say "Cast on 90 (95, 100, 105, 110) sts.", then:

• if you are the largest size, cast on 110 stitches.
  
• if you are the fourth size, cast on 105 stitches.
  
• if you are the third size, cast on 100 stitches.
  
• and so on.
  

Any other statements with a similar sequence of numbers is treated similarly:
Cast off 4(5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows.

All you have to do is remember which of those numbers is for you.

Hints

One suggestion that will help to make your knitting life happier is to read through your knitting pattern, before you start to knit, looking for every occurrence of the multi-size sequence of numbers.

Highlight the one that applies to you.

If you are the second-from-the-smallest size, then highlight the first number inside the parentheses.

Another hint: if you would like to learn more, sign up for the free e-course on How to Read Knitting Patterns.

More about the sizes

A 40 could mean a 40" bust. Or it could mean the finished size.

And do S/M/L/XL/2XL mean the same as in ready-to-wear?

If you are fortunate, the pattern writer also includes some other clues as to what the size means.

Some patterns say that the Size refers to the finished size of the garment. Some also include the corresponding bust/chest measurement (if the garment is a sweater). Some patterns will indicate whether the garment is fits loosely or snugly.

But in some cases you are on your own for figuring out what the size number really means.

One method you can use is to take advantage of the gauge specification. But you will need to do a bit of math.

Example:

If the gauge says 20 stitches in 4 inches with Stocking Stitch, and the Back and Front of a Stocking Stitch Sweater each have 100 stitches on the needle just below the armhole shaping, then there are 200 stitches around the chest/bust.

200 stitches is ten 20-stitch chunks, or ten 4-inch chunks, or 40 inches finished size. With the standard of a couple of inches of ease, then if your chest/bust is 38 inches, this will be a comfortable fit. If the sweater is designed to fit snugly, though, it would work with a chest/bust of 42 inches (that's called "negative ease").

Conclusion

Now you know how to interpret a knitting pattern for multiple sizes. It's time for you to start making a sweater that's the correct size.